As I leave Cambodia, Thai and Cambodian troops are fighting across the border at Preah Vihear, another stunning temple site. In 1962, the International Court of Justice ruled that the area is inside Cambodia, but politics is rarely rational. Buddhist monks on both sides of the border have condemned the fighting and the UN may send in peacekeepers. Yesterday, the Cambodian Appeal Court heard the appeal of 4 ex Khmer Rouge cadres convicted of murdering a Mines Advisory Group (MAG) de-miner, Chris Howes in 1996.
The appeal was based upon an alleged blanket pardon given earlier to Khmer Rouge fighters. Howes local co-worker, Houn Hourth, was also murdered, and his family is seeking compensation. A verdict is expected by the end of February. The Khmer Rouge tribunal, established under the auspices of the UN, remains $20 million short of its core funding for this year, although the Japanese government has just pledged $11.7 million, to continue to bring those responsible for the 1975-9 genocide to justice.
South East Asian politics is murky, but no murkier than anywhere else. Both Vietnam and Cambodia are hybrid states. Having fought against past colonisations, they are now trying to revive once rejected cultures, like French culture in the cafes and sidewalks and of course American popular culture, which takes hold everywhere whether it is planned, wanted or not. Khmer culture, wonderful in its monuments and its cuisine, has also taken a strong hold, so that the political truce after the war and battles is also now an economic and cultural truce. The co-existence is not as harmonious as somewhere with decades of consolidation like Mauritius but these are now safe and easy places to be, whoever you are. As they see it, these countries are in a race against time to catch up with Singapore, Hong Kong and especially Shanghai. China’s growth and spread is keenly felt. No one wants to be a poor neighbour, left behind. And rural poverty, in both Vietnam and Cambodia, is still largely the same as it has been for centuries, though no one goes hungry anymore.
It has been brilliant here, and I recommend it whether you want to sunbathe in the wall to wall sunshine, imbibe culture, eat the very best of South East Asian food which is cheap and healthy, or just relax in a culture which is positive and simultaneously laid back and heaving!
This blog was written by Anthony Douglas. Experience Travel are really pleased to sponsor Anthony as he cycles through Vietnam and Cambodia to raise money for MAG International (Mines Advisory Group); who deliver landmine clearance programmes in former war-affected countries. MAG aims to make land blighted by war safe again for farming, light industry and for making towns and villages habitable again.’
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