As I leave Cambodia, Thai and Cambodian troops are fighting across the border at Preah Vihear, another stunning temple site. In 1962, the International Court of Justice ruled that the area is inside Cambodia, but politics is rarely rational. Buddhist monks on both sides of the border have condemned the fighting and the UN may send in peacekeepers. Yesterday, the Cambodian Appeal Court heard the appeal of 4 ex Khmer Rouge cadres convicted of murdering a Mines Advisory Group (MAG) de-miner, Chris Howes in 1996.

The appeal was based upon an alleged blanket pardon given earlier to Khmer Rouge fighters. Howes local co-worker, Houn Hourth, was also murdered, and his family is seeking compensation. A verdict is expected by the end of February. The Khmer Rouge tribunal, established under the auspices of the UN, remains $20 million short of its core funding for this year, although the Japanese government has just pledged $11.7 million, to continue to bring those responsible for the 1975-9 genocide to justice. (more…)

Siam Reap is a great city, mixing the old and new Orient, and old and new backpackers. The Siam Reap river flows through the city like warm khaki blood through silted up veins. All human life is in or on the banks of the river. It is literally teeming. We have raised over 100,000 pounds for the victims of landmine clearance. Some of the intrepid de-miners are amputees who, fitted with plastic prosthetics, want to make the ground safer for others than it was for them. Some amputees move about in specially adapted bikes but most stay out of sight, as disability is mostly hidden away in Cambodia. Apart from some charity given our through the temples, support services are non-existent. As the sun sets, we eat fish amok at the Cafe Indochine, and are back in touch with fun-loving hustling and bustling Cambodia, which is never more than a street or a glance away. (more…)

We rightly associate Angkor Wat with rich cultural history, and buildings and sculptures ahead of their time. But it also has a present tense. Today I met some children who are being raised by Buddhist monks in Angkor. They play the most amazing music. I also went to an orphanage just outside Siam Reap called Santepheap (Hope), where the children perform Khmer dances. And another charity, Honour Village Cambodia, whose logo is a lotus flower, who are working tirelessly to improve the lives of disadvantaged Cambodian children. Most NGO and charity workers are here living on a shoestring, to find a meaning in their own lives through supporting people. Many I have met in the last few days are from all corners of the developed world, and not just gap year kids. 45 year olds taking a gap year, and recently retired people starting out on a new life. Westerns in transition hepling Cambodians in transition. (more…)

It is Tet-time – New Year – in Cambodia (and across South East Asia). We are cycling about 70 miles a day, lunching in Buddhist temple grounds, courtesy of the monks, who are friendly and unpretentious.Boys become monks for a couple of years, a bit like national service.

The courtesy, politeness and humility is genuine and this is one reason why no-one talks about the genocide openly. It remains a huge affront to national pride as well as to religious principles. (more…)

Angkor Wat later today. Can’t wait. Even Pol Pot, amidst the genocide and carnage, left it alone and defined the site as part of an inviolable Khmer heritage. We ride past endless pure green paddy fields, looking like a series of perfect English lawns. The riders who predicted a collective muscular meltdown are relieved they have been able to keep going in 36 degree heat over long distances. The cheering children at every turn are inspirational when energy levels drop. Most Cambodian houses are built on stilts, so that food can be stored underneath and animals can rest. This is two thirds of Cambodia. The other third is the capital, Pnomh Penh, which like many Asian capitals, is exploding in every direction possible, with upsides and downsides (more…)

Crossing the Mekong River takes a while as it is four times wider than the Thames at Kompong Cham. Its vast aquatic serenity is only stirred by a sighting of the rare Mekong River dolpin. We ride through endless villages with the strong smell of sandalwood. Young children line the road selling jackfruit. The roads are straight, Roman-like, as we head for Siam Reap and Angkor Wat.

We lunch with schoolchildren and give them pens and other school materials which their teachers wanted. Poverty, and contentment are side by side. Buddhist temples abound, and nearly always on ground considered holy or important. Whereas Vietnam was more at ease with outside world, Cambodia is at ease with itself, despite what happened in the time of Pol Pot. (more…)

From Vietnam to Cambodia: a legendary route. Cambodia is poorer than Vietnam and needs more inward investment. But in most ways it is the new Thailand. The friendliness is overwhelming and not being hassled is a relief. Photography is easy and the subject of local amusement.

We ride through towns and villages called sensory overload. 29 riders gelling with each other and applying a greasier version to their sore back sides. The scriptwriter of Men Behaving Badly. A female civil engineer working in a traditional man’s world. A 67 year old psychotherapist and a 25 year old care worker. Supposed differences between people become illusory and disappear in the intensity of the moment and the experience as we all support each other getting to our daily destination, all of us in a personal and a collective zone. (more…)